Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Adventures with Lunumiris -- A Sri Lankan Spice

When I found out that I would be going to a Sri Lankan restaurant with a Sri Lankan friend, I got all excited. What better way to experience some of the local favourites and find out what “real” Sri Lankan food is supposed to taste like. Unlike Korean food, having visited Korea and having many Korean friends, I have a benchmark as to what makes a decent Korean dish. With Sri Lankan cuisine, I was glad to have Samila along, since he had been to this restaurant a few times before and was eager for us to try it.

“Samila, does this place have authentic Sri Lankan food?” I asked him before we left my house. “ Does it taste like the food back home?”

“Yes, of course!” he replied. Quickly adding, “But it's been changed a little for Japanese tastes. We cannot make it as spicy as we like it in Sri Lanka.”

“Are the owners Sri Lankan?” I asked. “Do you think you could ask them to spice things up for us a little bit more?”

“Of course!” Samila replied enthusiastically. And so we set off by car to Chuo City, which is really just south of Kofu, maybe about a 20 minute drive by car from the city centre.

Pulling into the parking lot, I saw inside the restaurant through the front window. “Holy cow!” I thought. “How fancy IS this place?” I had sticker shock without even seeing the menu. It looked very fancy indeed! The interior is all done up in dark woods, with wood paneling on the walls, shiny hardwood floors, and very modern, chestnut colored tables contrasting starkly with equally modern, elegant, white chairs. Certainly not something I was expecting, especially considering the signs out front, and even the business card that was given to me a week prior, don't come anywhere close to matching the interior elegance I saw when we first arrived at the restaurant. Rather than expound on this any further, I will allow my readers to see for themselves what I'm talking about. I've included a picture of both, business card and restaurant. I have restricted myself to only one picture, having forgotten my good camera and with only my cellphone I would spare everyone the pain of having to look at anything more than one mediocre photo emanating from my cellphone's pinhole-sized lens.



In terms of authenticity, it was a welcoming sight to see a number of Sri Lankan people sitting, enjoying their meals, some of whom, upon seeing Samila walk in greeted him warmly in Sri Lankan and he wasted no time in chatting up the waiter who he said was a friend. What Samila described later as Sri Lankan music played quietly in the background.

We were given menus, and Samila earned his keep with a few good recommendations. In the end I opted for the Deviled Mutton (¥1,300) , Chicken Biriyani (¥1,000) and Vegetable Roti (¥450). In addition, since my wife was the designated driver last time, I got the job on this trip, so instead of beer I opted for a Lassi (yogurt drink - ¥350). Samila's selection closely matched my own, although instead of the Chicken Biriyani he chose the Special Mixed Fried Rice with Vegetables (¥1,400) – a dish not dissimilar to my Chicken Biriyani but with a side note that it was appropriate for 1.5 – 2 people.

It was a tough decision, the menu being otherwise full of Indian style curries, like Chicken Curry (¥800), Mutton Curry, Prawn Curry, (both ¥1,000) side orders of rice or roti, (¥180) and a virtual cornucopia of both Western and Asian dishes – from Sirloin Steak (¥1,700) to Sweet and Sour Chicken and Chop Suey Rice (¥800, ¥900, respectively). A full complement of soups, salads (¥500 range) and deserts (¥250) completed the selection. One interesting note about the menu, however; each one had random items crossed out in it, obviously indicating unavailable items... This alone is not so serious but I thought it rather strange that no two menus had the same items crossed out... I found myself cross-referencing menus and wondering which dishes were, in fact available and which ones weren't.

Regardless, when we placed our order, Samila chatted with the waiter in Sri Lankan for a minute or so, and they seemed to be having quite the dialog before the waiter finally left us and retreated into the kitchen.

“I told him that we wanted things more spicy – like we have in Sri Lanka, not like for Japanese people” he explained. I was glad he remembered to do so. I looked forward to the experience.

As we waited for our meal to arrive, the waiter made a brief stop at our table, and following a short conversation with Samila, explained that the Vegetable Roti wasn't available, and whether we wouldn't mind trying a different variety – fish or beef. I opted for the beef. After a somewhat lengthy wait, (30 minutes or so) our dishes arrived piecemeal, starting with the mutton. It was pleasantly sweet, slices of meat, onions and green peppers with a hint of ginger. The rice dishes followed, with the Beef Roti arriving last. The presentation was impressive with everything served in elegant, white china. It definitely matched the overall décor and restaurant atmosphere.

I had just started on the Chicken Biriyani when the waiter returned with a large, shallow bowl full of a dark red paste-like substance. As soon as Samila saw it, he just about went into convulsions and started madly chattering away at the waiter who brought the concoction.

“When I told them that we wanted our food spicy like in Sri Lanka they thought I meant this..” Samila exploded between fits of incredulous, nervous laughter. “It's a very hot Sri Lankan spice you put on your food.”

“What do you call it?” I asked.

“It's called, 'lunumiris'” he replied. “But it's very hot. Maybe too much.”

“That's great!” I smiled. “Exactly what we're looking for. I want to try some!” I picked up the teaspoon from the bowl, heaping full of lunumiris... “How's this?”

Samila, just about choking, burst out: “No! No! That's waaaay too much! Just a little bit! Really. It's very spicy.”

I emptied half a teaspoon of paste back into the bowl and the other half onto a portion of Biriyani rice. Even as the fork approached my mouth, Samila sat, spellbound by my resolve to subject myself to what he assumed would be excruciating pain.

Prepared for the worst, I bravely ate the lunumiris-covered rice, savoring the flavour of the paste, trying to pick out individual flavours.

“So...?” Samila asked after a few moments of anticipation.

“I... like it!” I answered back picking up the spoon from the bowl and proceeding to liberally spread lunumiris all over the Chicken Biriyani.

“Oh my God!” Samila exclaimed, shaking his head in disbelief. “Are you sure you're not Sri Lankan?” he asked me rhetorically.

Having grown up with a father who just loved any kind of hot or spicy food, I've become largely accustomed to the “burn” of such foods. I've learned to enjoy the experience for the most part, choosing to interpret the sensation on my palette as a “pleasant, warm glow” as opposed to an insane, raging inferno. Rarely a meal went by growing up when the ever-present bottle of cayenne pepper wasn't spread over my father's meals. From what I understand, scientists figure that it's even quite healthy.

Far be it for me to question the wisdom of scientists touting the health benefits of capsicin, I thoroughly enjoyed my “enhanced” Chicken Biriyani. Without the heat, it would have been just another rice dish. The beef roti did fall into that latter category – although not at all unpleasant, wasn't anything particularly special and I could have done well enough without it. My original choice was between that and a dish of “Wade,” a Sri Lankan appetizer that came highly recommended by our friend. I opted for the roti.

Our meal was followed by a complementary desert of custard that tasted as good as the rest of our meal. Interestingly enough, we never ventured into the realm of curries – something I'll be sure to try next time.

Typical to many of the South Asian restaurants in this area, lunch buffets are the standard, and this restaurant is no exception. They offer a daily buffet from 11:00 to 14:30 for ¥780, which is, to say the least, about 100 yen less than most of the other Indian restaurants in the greater Kofu area.

I'm glad I was introduced to this gem of a restaurant. If I weren't already married, I would have no qualms at all about bringing a date here – the atmosphere is certainly very pleasant. Paying separately for our respective meals, the entire bill for my wife and I, including a beer for her, two Lassi drinks, a meat dish, rice dish and appetizer all came in at a modest ¥3850. With draft beer costing only ¥480, soft drinks ¥250 and many menu choices nowhere near breaking the 1,000 yen barrier, Midland makes for an inexpensive yet classy evening.

Summary:

The Good: Very classy-looking restaurant, modern décor; tasty food, reasonable prices. Ample menu selections, many styles of food: Indian, Sri Lankan, Chinese and Western. Kids' menus are available too, as well as set menus and group menus. English-speaking staff; Sri Lankan items for sale near the entrance: spices, Basmati rice, lentils, lunumiris, green (Indian) pickle, to name a few.

The bad: The wait: 30 minutes is not an unreasonable time to wait for a meal, but admittedly, was a little bit long for me. The time lapse between dishes arriving at our table could also have used some improvement.. It may have been due to the fact that only one cook was in the kitchen and we ordered a number of dishes, and there were several other patrons in the restaurant as well. In the end the quality of the food was worth the wait but if a half-hour is common, I would recommend some sort of appetizer or snack to nibble on with drinks while waiting, if possible. Otherwise, it would be good to have menus that agreed with each other as to what was available and what was not.

Menu: Sri Lankan, Indian dishes, curries, Western, Sri Lankan-style Chinese, soups, salads, deserts, full bar and alcoholic drink menu, Kirin draft beer.

Price Range: Main courses: ¥800-1700, soups, salads ¥500 range, deserts ¥250, soft drinks ¥250, draft beer ¥480, lunch buffet ¥780, group/set menu ¥2,000-5,000.

Smoking: Yes. One smoker sitting at another table. It didn't bother us but it was noticeable. There is no specific non-smoking section.

Recommended?: Yes

Details:
Midland Indo Lanka Restaurant
Tel. 055-273-0222
Hours: Daily: 11:00-1500; 16:30-22:00; (lunch buffet 11:00 - 14:00); last order 21:30. Closed on national holidays.
Location: Chuo City, Wakamiya 2-8 Angel House Narase Bldg.
Languages spoken: Sri Lankan, Japanese, English
Parking: yes

Wednesday, May 21, 2008

A spicy beginning... Don De Mun (Korean)

I thought that May 20th would be a great day to embark on what I hope will be a fun, useful restaurant review Blog for anyone in the general Kofu, Japan area. It also happened to be our wedding anniversary and going out for a celebratory meal took us to a small, Korean restaurant in the middle of the city -- a place we had seen only a few days prior and decided would be worthwhile trying out someday. This will be a fairly simple, straightforward review, but I hope you enjoy it.

This unassuming, little restaurant is located on Showa Dori, near the Arakawa River, specifically, across from Coco's, a large family restaurant. The signage is mostly in kanji, and even if you can 't recognize the characters for "Korean" it's pretty obvious from all the color photographs of delectable-looking dishes decorating the building's exterior. The kanji for the restaurant's name reads: "East Large Gate" but the furigana next to it shows a more Korean reading: Don De Mun.

As we entered through the sliding doors, two women sprung into action, welcoming us and offering us a place to sit. It seemed we were the first customers of the evening, and that's the way it would remain until we left. I do wonder if they have a time or day when they are busy -- but I guess 9:00pm on a Tuesday wasn't it. The hours, though are very long -- 5pm to 3am so they can accommodate just about anyone, even the busiest of salarymen, providing they aren't working a night shift until morning. Unlike many such restaurants I've seen in the past, even though the decor was sparse and unimpressive, save a few Korean knick-knacks decorating the walls, the seating area, floors, and walls were kept squeaky-clean. The layout allowed us to see part-way into the kitchen, and I must say that even the stainless steel cooking area and grills were well-kept. So far, so good. I did ask how old the restaurant was, and the waitress said that they've been around for a while but moved to their present location only a year ago.

The first item of business was ordering a draft beer (¥600) for me and a Coke (¥400) for my gracious, designated driver Bonnie. I thought that the prices for drinks in general was a bit on the high side of average, but to the restaurant's credit, four dishes of appetizers soon followed. A bowl of the quintessential kimchi (spicy, pickled cabbage), sesame oil-flavoured bean sprouts, sweet, dried and marinated squid jerky, and marinated seaweed salad. I would have been happy even just munching on the appetizers as they were both plentiful and very flavourful. You'd also never guess that the chewy, sweet and tasty morsels in one of the bowls was squid... We were certainly off to a fine start, I thought. I tend to judge Korean restaurants based on the quality (and quantity) of kimchi (I hate to admit) but Don De Mun passed both tests. It was very traditional-tasting, spicy, (but not overly spicy) and when we finished the first bowl, I asked for some more and an even larger bowl appeared thereafter -- something that's always appreciated.

The menu prices were on the high side of average. I ordered another quintessential Korean dish: Bulgogi (sweet marinated beef and vegetables) (¥1500) and Bonnie tried the stone-cooked Bi Bim Ba (fried rice, vegetables, egg, sauce) (¥1200) which gets served to your table sizzling in a stone bowl. The non-stone-cooked variety is also available for ¥1000. The Bulgogi was exactly what I had expected and didn't disappoint. It was comfortably sweet, not spicy and the vegetables retained a fair amount of crispiness. As for the Bi Bim Ba, just as the kimchi preceding it, was spicy but not overly. Sometimes I forget that restaurants in this country do cater largely to a Japanese audience, many of whom tend not to care for spicy or hot foods. Having said that however, I would not recommend coming here to someone who cannot handle such dishes, as my mouth was definitely aglow for a good portion of our meal. I enjoyed the Bi Bim Ba for the rice since my own Bulgogi didn't come with any and would have cost ¥300 extra. In addition, it was served with two bowls of clear, seaweed broth that was an enjoyable contrast to the Bi Bim Ba. As it was, the portion sizes were quite large and we were both quite well satisfied with it all. I felt that we got our money's worth.

As an additional note, when I ordered my second beer, we were served another snack -- apparently a specialty of rural, Southern Korea: dried seaweed with sesame seeds. The best way to describe it would be to say it was like a seaweed jerky -- tough to chew but not unpleasantly so. It complemented the beer well.

When it was all said and done, our final bill for two people, including two beers and a Coke, came to ¥4300 -- which is exactly what I hoped I'd end up paying. This means that all the appetizers and snacks and side dishes we received were part of the bill total and not as part of a seating charge which tends to be very common in Japanese restaurants and izakayas where beer and snacks are served.

I enjoyed our time and look forward to coming again, hopefully to try some of the other interesting-looking dishes on the menu.

Summary:

The good: very tasty food, friendly staff, clean atmosphere, no seating charge, drinks served in chilled glasses.

The bad: eyeball-burning fluorescent lighting, average to high drink prices, horrible menu photography -- pretty much all amorphous, blurry masses... (Hint: examine the pictures of the dishes outside, before entering the restaurant -- outside, they are crystal clear and look tasty).

Menu: Traditional Korean dishes. Korean BBQ, Bulgogi, Bi Bim Ba, Korean "maki" (sushi) rolls, soups, salads, Kimchi pork soba noodles, full alcoholic drink menu including Kirin draft beer.


Price range: ¥500 for a soup or salad, ¥1000-¥1500 main dishes, ¥3000-¥5000 groups/Korean BBQ yaki-nikku plates. Average price for 2 (including drinks): ¥4000.

Smoking: Probably. No one else was there when we went and we don't smoke. If smoking is permitted, consistently keeping with the overall cleanliness of the restaurant, there were no ashtrays on the tables.

Recommended?: Yes

Details:
Don De Mun
Tel. 055-226-3676
Hours: Daily from 5pm-3am
Location: Showa Dori, across from Coco's Restaurant
Languages spoken: Korean, Japanese (no English)
Parking: yes